Love the way this is working up .. hoping this looks as awesome in reality when done as its looking in my mind :). Needles crossed lol .. and of course the colour doesn't look right in the picture :(
23 November 2012
22 November 2012
Bread and cheese with mushrooms
I tripped over this as an image on facebook, and its in bulgarian LOL .. so gotta love google translator :) Some of the wording is a bit awkward, but no worse than listening to my grandmother speak her English when i was growing up ... Never thought of it, but I guess us children and grandchildren of immigrants could prolly consider our elders language skills as a second language.. no this isn't a slam, more a fond memory of of have my grandmother switch from English to Ukranian in mid-sentence LOL .. and it only got worse as she got older. Brings up some awesome memories :)
1. Mushrooms Peel and thinly slice.
2. In a pan heat 1 tbsp oil in it twice fry mushrooms. Add the thyme leaves and then the court is pulled from the heat.
3. The bread is cut into squares without touching the bottom crust. Should remain intact.
Original post can be found at Bread With Cheese & Mushrooms
Bread and cheese with mushrooms
Source: Transmission "Bon Appetit" by Laura and Stoyan, 10/27/2012
40 minutes
for 4-6 servings
Ingredients:
1 round loaf
400 g mushrooms
100 g butter
280 g processed cheese
3-4 green onions
2 tsp poppy seeds
3-4 sprigs thyme
1 tbsp butter for mushrooms
400 g mushrooms
100 g butter
280 g processed cheese
3-4 green onions
2 tsp poppy seeds
3-4 sprigs thyme
1 tbsp butter for mushrooms
Method of preparation:
1. Mushrooms Peel and thinly slice.
2. In a pan heat 1 tbsp oil in it twice fry mushrooms. Add the thyme leaves and then the court is pulled from the heat.
3. The bread is cut into squares without touching the bottom crust. Should remain intact.
4. Butter is melted and mixed with small pieces chopped onion and poppy seed.
5. Bread is placed on a sheet of aluminium foil and fill with slices diced cream cheese and fried mushrooms and pressed into the holes nice. Spread with butter mixture and wrap in foil.
6. Bake in preheated 180 degree oven with a fan for 15 minutes. Then remove the foil and bake another 10 minutes.
18 November 2012
Brioche .. Bagged
Now I'm digging round for a slouchy beret pattern that uses a cable like this .. Think I need to do a combination of two patterns that I found on Ravelry ..the band from this pattern ... (I can do the brioche stitch for it if I want) Having an issue deciding between Star Crossed Slouchy Berry or Spring Beret. I'm leaning towards the Star Crossed one as its a more slouchy version and I dont have to fuss with the pattern
06 April 2012
Sweet and Spicy Shrimp
This recipe is from food.com submitted by kim petro
Read more: http://www.food.com/recipe/sweet-and-spicy-shrimp-236548
Ingredients:
Servings: 4
Units: US
- 1 lb large shrimp , peeled and deveined
- 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons minced shallots
- 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 2 cups diced tomatoes
- 2 teaspoons water
- 1 teaspoon Chinese mustard (can be substituted with dijon mustard)
- 1/4 cup rice vinegar
- 2 tablespoons honey
Directions:
- 1Place the shrimp in a bowl. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper --
- 2Coat large nonstick skillet with cooking spray and place over medium high heat for 1 minute -- Add the shallots and ginger, cook for 3 minutes -- Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute -- Stir in the tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes or until softended --
- 3In a cup mix the water and mustard, (if you use a milder mustard skip the water). Add to skillet. Stir in the vinegar and honey. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the sauce is reduced and thickened.
- 4Add the shrimp. Cook for 3 minutes or until shrimp are opaque.
Read more: http://www.food.com/recipe/sweet-and-spicy-shrimp-236548#ixzz1rJsuuyct
28 March 2012
Domino Square Potholder Pattern
Here's another great article from interweave ... full article [read more]
Imagine all the great things you can make using this technique .. towels, throws, rugs, maybe even a shawl if you're able to create a pattern on your own :)
Domino Square Potholder
Measurements: 7.5" x 7.5" (19 x 19 cm) without border, 8" x 8" (20 x 20 cm) with border
Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn
Colors: Purple, fuchsia, and violet
Needles: Dn 4 (3.5 mm). Circular needle 4 (3.5 mm) for the border.
Abbreviations
K-CO: knitted cast-on
dn: domino needle (see info below)
K-CO 75 stitch on dn and knit a square (see instructions below) with 9 purple ridges, 1 fuchsia, 1 purple, 10 fuchsia, 1 violet, 1 fuchsia, ridge and the rest with violet. When 3 stitches remain, knit a 2¾" (7 cm) long strip for the loop. Turn the loop to the wrong side and sew it down neatly.
How to Knit a Basic Domino Square
Using the knitted cast-on, CO 25 stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Knit to the last st, p1. Mark the center three stitches.
Row 2 (RS): (Note: The yarn tail hangs at the right side.) Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (=k10), sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso, knit to the last st (= 10sts), p1 (= 23 sts).
Row 3 and all WS rows: Sl 1 kwise, knit to last st, end p1.
Row 4: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k9), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k9), end p1 (= 21 sts).
Row 6: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k89), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k8), end p1 (= 19 sts).
Row 8: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k7), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k7), end p1 (= 17 sts).
Continue in this manner until 3 sts remain.
Next row (WS): Sl 1 kwise, k1, p1.
Next row: Sl 1, k2tog, psso (= 1st) This is a live stitch that you will use when you knit the next square.
Knitted "Mouse Teeth" Picot
With circular needle, purple yarn, and right side facing, pick up and knit 75-76 stitches in the stitches of the CO row. Knit 1 row.
New row: *Using the first stitch on the needle as the beginning stitch, K-CO 2 new stitches, BO 4 stitches, move the stitches on the right needle to the left needle*; repeat *-*. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.
Domino Needles (Dn)
According to Vivian Høxbro, "A pair of domino needles is absolutely indispensable. The needles are only about 8" (20 cm) long, with a knob on one end so that the needle ends won't get stuck in your clothes or your knitting."
I agree, knitting small pieces is easier if you use short needles. You can buy short needles if you want to or simply place point protectors on a pair of double-pointed needles and use those. Double-pointed, double-duty! When you need to return the needles to their set, just take off the point protectors and you're good to go. I use DPNs all the time when I'm knitting scarves or baby clothes.
You could also use circular needles; I'd recommend 24-inch needles because 16-inch circulars are too short to comfortably work with, and a cable longer than 24 inches can be awkward when you're turning your work all the time.
Another reason that short needles are great in this type of knitting is because you use less movement when you're turning the work, which is a good thing and helps avoid repetitive-motion injuries.
Imagine all the great things you can make using this technique .. towels, throws, rugs, maybe even a shawl if you're able to create a pattern on your own :)
Domino Square Potholder
Measurements: 7.5" x 7.5" (19 x 19 cm) without border, 8" x 8" (20 x 20 cm) with border
Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn
Colors: Purple, fuchsia, and violet
Needles: Dn 4 (3.5 mm). Circular needle 4 (3.5 mm) for the border.
Abbreviations
K-CO: knitted cast-on
dn: domino needle (see info below)
 | |
How to Knit a Basic Domino Square
Using the knitted cast-on, CO 25 stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Knit to the last st, p1. Mark the center three stitches.
Row 2 (RS): (Note: The yarn tail hangs at the right side.) Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (=k10), sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso, knit to the last st (= 10sts), p1 (= 23 sts).
Row 3 and all WS rows: Sl 1 kwise, knit to last st, end p1.
Row 4: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k9), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k9), end p1 (= 21 sts).
Row 6: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k89), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k8), end p1 (= 19 sts).
Row 8: Sl 1 kwise, knit to marker before center 3 sts (= k7), sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to last st (= k7), end p1 (= 17 sts).
Continue in this manner until 3 sts remain.
Next row (WS): Sl 1 kwise, k1, p1.
Next row: Sl 1, k2tog, psso (= 1st) This is a live stitch that you will use when you knit the next square.
Knitted "Mouse Teeth" Picot
With circular needle, purple yarn, and right side facing, pick up and knit 75-76 stitches in the stitches of the CO row. Knit 1 row.
New row: *Using the first stitch on the needle as the beginning stitch, K-CO 2 new stitches, BO 4 stitches, move the stitches on the right needle to the left needle*; repeat *-*. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.
Domino Needles (Dn)
According to Vivian Høxbro, "A pair of domino needles is absolutely indispensable. The needles are only about 8" (20 cm) long, with a knob on one end so that the needle ends won't get stuck in your clothes or your knitting."
I agree, knitting small pieces is easier if you use short needles. You can buy short needles if you want to or simply place point protectors on a pair of double-pointed needles and use those. Double-pointed, double-duty! When you need to return the needles to their set, just take off the point protectors and you're good to go. I use DPNs all the time when I'm knitting scarves or baby clothes.
You could also use circular needles; I'd recommend 24-inch needles because 16-inch circulars are too short to comfortably work with, and a cable longer than 24 inches can be awkward when you're turning your work all the time.
Another reason that short needles are great in this type of knitting is because you use less movement when you're turning the work, which is a good thing and helps avoid repetitive-motion injuries.
19 March 2012
joining yarns
Found a nice tidbit on joining yarns, i admit i've gotten lazy and just knot the pieces and it gets buried in the stitch or to the back .. ive been lucky so far ;) but here is another method i've used along with using 2 threads from each piece. This is just the how-to that Kathleen has posted in her Knitting Daily article, to see the full article [read more...]
Overlapping Old and New Yarn
Use this joining method in an inconspicuous place, such as 1-2 inches from the side edge or in a textured area. This method is well suited for wools, synthetics, blends of any kind, and novelty yarns that are worsted-weight or finer. When worked with nonelastic yarns such as cotton and ribbon yarn, this join may be visible from the right side.
Step 1. Overlap the end of the old ball and the beginning of the new ball for about 6 inches.
Step 2. Work two stitches with the two strands held together as if there were a single strand.
Step 3. Drop the strand from the old ball and continue working with the new.
Step 4. On the next row, work the double-stranded stitches as if they were single-strand stitches. During finishing, secure the two loose ends by weaving them diagonally into the wrong side of the knitted fabric (weaving them horizontally or vertically may create a visible ridge on the right side).
—From The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square
Now the trick here is how you position the new yarn with the old yarn. Take a look at the Step 1 illustration above. See how the tail of the new yarn (shown in blue) points to the right and the end of the old yarn points to the left? That's the key. I was holding the tail and end of the old and new yarn together and not overlapping them correctly, creating a twisted stitch with the new yarn.
No more bummer!!
Overlapping Old and New Yarn
Use this joining method in an inconspicuous place, such as 1-2 inches from the side edge or in a textured area. This method is well suited for wools, synthetics, blends of any kind, and novelty yarns that are worsted-weight or finer. When worked with nonelastic yarns such as cotton and ribbon yarn, this join may be visible from the right side.
 |  | |
Step 2. Work two stitches with the two strands held together as if there were a single strand.
Step 3. Drop the strand from the old ball and continue working with the new.
Step 4. On the next row, work the double-stranded stitches as if they were single-strand stitches. During finishing, secure the two loose ends by weaving them diagonally into the wrong side of the knitted fabric (weaving them horizontally or vertically may create a visible ridge on the right side).
—From The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square
Now the trick here is how you position the new yarn with the old yarn. Take a look at the Step 1 illustration above. See how the tail of the new yarn (shown in blue) points to the right and the end of the old yarn points to the left? That's the key. I was holding the tail and end of the old and new yarn together and not overlapping them correctly, creating a twisted stitch with the new yarn.
No more bummer!!
16 March 2012
Honeycomb Stitch
From the interweave Knitting Daily - for full article [read more]
Honeycomb, from Pop Knitting
Stitch count: multiple of 22.
Two colors.
Rows 1-15: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Row 16 (RS): With color 2, *(pick up 1 st 7 rows below and place it on left needle. Purl that stitch together with next st) 3 times, p16, (pick up 1 st 7 rows below and place it on left needle. Purl that stitch together with next st) 3 times; rep from *.
Row 17 (WS): With color 2, knit.
Row 18 (RS): With color 1, purl.
Row 19-25: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Row 26 (RS): With color 1, *k8, (pick up 1 st 7 rows down and place it on left needle. Knit it together with next st) 6 times, k8; rep from *.
Rows 27-32: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Repeat Rows 1-32.
Stitch count: multiple of 22.
Two colors.
Rows 1-15: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Row 16 (RS): With color 2, *(pick up 1 st 7 rows below and place it on left needle. Purl that stitch together with next st) 3 times, p16, (pick up 1 st 7 rows below and place it on left needle. Purl that stitch together with next st) 3 times; rep from *.
Row 17 (WS): With color 2, knit.
Row 18 (RS): With color 1, purl.
Row 19-25: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Row 26 (RS): With color 1, *k8, (pick up 1 st 7 rows down and place it on left needle. Knit it together with next st) 6 times, k8; rep from *.
Rows 27-32: With color 1, work in stockinette, beginning on WS with a purl row.
Repeat Rows 1-32.
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